Valentino presents black tie Paris show, Lanvin keeps it simple

Paris – Cars to drop off countless VIPs for Valentino’s “Black Tie” show at Paris Fashion Week meandered through the blocks as the lights of Paris’ night lit up the nearby Arc de Triomphe. Designer Pierpaolo Piccioli has unveiled a star-studded collection that deconstructs the suit in a play of androgyny and tailors.

At Lanvin, meanwhile, stars such as Avril Lavigne sat under Gothic arches to admire the latest designs from the oldest couture maison that casually evoked history.

Here are some highlights from Sunday’s ready-to-wear display.

valentino black tie

Brooklyn Beckham and Nicole Peltz soaked up photographers’ flashes inside the glamorous Hotel Salomon de Rothschild in a moment of the calm before the storm. An insider was vying for his spot at one of the highly anticipated shows of the Paris season.

This fall, Piccioli captured the fluid zeitgeist of gender with a dissecting suit display of black ties, punk sparkles, and gold earrings.

Sheer black blouse was decorated with large white polka dots. A white shirt and black tie became an all-encompassing floor-sweeping gown.

The show’s theme of skinny black ties was plentiful, and there was sometimes a white shirt take that caught Celine’s Hedi Slimane echoes.

Still, monochromatic musings were handled delicately, balanced by eye-popping bursts of color on trend, such as long wool citrine coats and emerald green leather poncho jackets.

invitation art

The age of email and growing environmental awareness don’t seem to have much effect on the fashion industry’s antiquated invitation system. Personal delivery of elaborate, often handcrafted invitations that are not found anywhere else.

Top Maisons compete for the quirkiest and most imaginative ideas that often give clues to the themes of runway collections.

Balenciaga’s invitation, which featured a toile blazer set against a plain background, was interpreted by fashion insiders as a signal for a fresh start for beleaguered designer Demna Gvasalia. I apologized after the industry-wide criticism of my article and ads featuring bondage bears. Gvasalia has told the media that he’s returning to his jacket-making roots, where he started as a designer, and humbly admits that fashion isn’t a “topic”, she said.

Givenchy sent out a giant patent black croc-embossed purse containing details of the show that went in a glamorous direction.

On the other hand, was Chloé’s invitation box of designer cacao chocolates by Alain Ducasse meant to pamper guests after a string of half-hearted reviews?

lanvin is simple

References to the 1940s, 1980s, 18th century, the Middle Ages and the Renaissance mingle inside the historic arches of Paris’ 13th-century Bernardin University. But despite these myriad styles, this fall/winter collection was stripped down, simply chic, and deliberately devoid of embellishment or embellishment.

There were some nice touches. Shirts, slit skirts His suits and coats were adorned with stud-like polka dots that lifted the spirits. Elsewhere, a pink coat with sloping shoulders from the 1940s became a textured pink statement piece. The black satin gown featured slanting dynamics that skillfully matched the angles of the stone arches in the back decoration.

The simplicity of the show betrayed the inner passion of Lanvin designer Bruno Sialelli. The house quoted Swedish-American sculptor Claes Oldenburg, who died last year. And what is made, stay away!

alexander mcqueen’s orchid

Designer Sarah Burton said she was drawn to orchids, the leitmotif of the fall collection with gothic hues for Alexander McQueen.

“It thrives in the air, resists rooting, and grows in the wild,” she said. “Orchids mimic both predators and prey.”

The anatomy of the orchid and the anatomy of human flesh were dissected in this original exhibit that transformed the beauty of this world’s most common flower into something almost menacing, ominous and provocative.

The inner orchid is painted with a white puffy image on an Asian style black skirt. Seen from above, the lips and cylinders of the flower resembled a ferocious creature with its mouth open to feed.

A sublime sheath of torch-red had gigger-like tendrils crawling around her bust and hips reminiscent of myriad orchid roots.

Front row stars Eddie Redmayne and Elle Fanning were met with accolades and applause.

Copyright 2023 The Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed without permission. Valentino presents black tie Paris show, Lanvin keeps it simple

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